An Island in Winter: part 2

Refresher: I went to Jeju Island, just south of Korea to start off my winter vacation. I stayed for one week. Part 1 covered the first 3 days of my adventures. Today, I will finish recounting the final 4 days of the trip!

Day 4

After a good night’s sleep in the cabin-like healing hotel, I woke up early, and walked outside, observing the farmland mixed with the modern homes being built. The sun had started to rise, giving a pink glow to the morning. I walked to the windmill farm, that you can see in the distance.


We checked out and started our way towards Seogwipo. Our first stop was Halla-san. We drove up a winding mountain highway, arriving at the 1,100 meters point for tourists to walk around. There was snow on the ground, but the weather was pleasantly warm. We drove down the mountain, to walk another trail, which passed through bamboo and beautiful, tall pine trees.

We arrived in Seogwipo early afternoon to our trendy, 3rd hotel. We rested and then walked to dinner at a very nice seafood restaurant. I ate many fish that I had never heard of before, and cannot remember the names of now. My favorite were the mini soft-shell crabs that offered a crunchy bite as you put the entire crab into your mouth.

Day 5

We were now on the south side of the island, in an area called Seogwipo (서귀포). Our hotel was in a perfect location, where the key sites to check out were 30 minutes or less walk away. It would be ideal for a warmer climate. We, however, chose to drive to the locations.
We first walked to the lovely Cheonjiyeon Falls (천지연 폭포). These falls were considered a spiritual place for people to go and pray.  Soldiers also used to practice their archery skills, shooting across the rocks.

We went to Saesom Island, walking across a beautiful bridge, and strolling around the very small, natural island. The bridge crossed along a busy fishing port, and the bells, and fisherman yells could be heard as we walked around.

We moved on to a 2nd waterfall, Jeongbang Falls (정방 폭포). These falls led straight into the ocean. We hiked down wooden stairs, and then carefully jumped along wet rocks to get to the bottom. I only dropped half my coat into the water one time!

We finished by going to Oedolgae Rock (외돌개). This was volcanic rock carved by ocean waves over hundreds of years.
There are 2 varying legends about the rock:
The first, related to an old woman who is awaiting her husband who went fishing, but never returned. She waited so long, that she turned into stone: Grandmother Rock.
The second, was that a general dressed up the rock to look like a soldier, to ward off the enemy. The enemy soldiers, believing the rock to be the general, killed themselves out of fear: General Stone

What do you see…?

Day 6

My breakfast box at the hotel had breaded fish, a hash brown, an orange, and – to my great dismay – a raw egg, which I luckily discovered after finishing the rest of my food.

We started the morning at Wonang Falls (원낭 폭포) higher in the hills. The 10 minutes’ walk from the parking lot was worth it. The falls were quiet and peaceful. There was a “river” of rocks you could jump across if you felt daring enough.

We made a detour to Jeju Central Park. It was an park of mini famous destinations all around the world.  The park was a bit run down, with paint chipping on the small buildings. It was still delightful for Belle to model in front of buildings she has visited, and wants to visit in the future! Can you spot Belle? Do you recognize any of these places?

After having a quick lunch, we went to the Jeju Folk Village park. It was well preserved, with multiple village types reflected: the farmers, fishermen, the healers and shaman, and even female divers. The park had year old calves in one barn, a donkey and horse for paid photo ops, and a few black pigs. There were also rabbits, chickens, and white peacocks. There were many plaques with English translations to explain the significant history, traditions and practices. There were games places throughout the park, to keep children entertained. I really enjoyed the experience.

We drove on to our final hotel. We stopped a few times for me to take pictures of the sun setting along the beach roads.

Our final night, we stayed in a hanok-style (Korean village) pension hotel. We cooked some instant ramyeon, made our floor beds, and went to sleep.

Day 7

My friend decided to get up early to watch the sunrise with me.

We then headed north, towards the airport, via the seaside roads. Our first stop was the Seongsan Mountain Ichulbong Peak (성산이출봉봉우리). As it’s on the east side of the island, it is also known as sunrise mountain.

The building in the corner is a restaurant and hub for female divers

Before returning the rental car and checking in for our flight, we stopped at one more park for carved rocks. Dol Hareubang are Jeju carved rocks that were considered gods that offered protection for the people. Some were also used to bless fertility. They remind me of the Moai of Easter Island.

We watched the last sunset begin from the tarmac, as we were boarding the airplane.

Thank you for joining me on this adventure. I have a feeling I will share more information, in a later post, regarding the female divers. I hope I provided you with a mental escape from the pandemic. I wish you health and positive thoughts!

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